Stargazing Pays Off With A Naked-Eye Nova,
Found by Portugal’s Alfredo Pereira

On the evening of December 1, 1999, amateur nova hunter Alfredo Pereira of Cabo da Roca, Portugal, hit upon a treasure he had sought for 500 hours of late night hunting since 1991. A 6.0 magnitude star stood shining where none had been before.

Nova Aquilae 1999 No. 2 reached a peak brightness of magnitude 4.1 on December 3, making it the brightest visible from north temperate latitudes since Nova Cygni 1975. Now also designated V1494 Aquilae, it was found with ordinary binoculars while he was performing a nightly ritual of examining the Milky Way and comparing the star fields to patterns he had committed to memory. The discovery was confirmed by another nova hunter, Gary Nowak of Essex Junction, Vermont, four hours later.

Porto's Nightlife Appeals to Sophisticated Visitors

There's no better way to begin a memorable evening than by visiting the Solar do Vinho do Porto. The Port Wine Institute, a governing body that controls the quality of the wine, maintains the Romantic Museum of Quinta da Macerinha. Taste different types of port Monday to Saturday from 2 p.m. to midnight. Drinks begin at $1. From the old building, enjoy the splendid view of the Douro.

Five singers and musicians perform folkloric guitar music and the evocative fado lyrics that go with it at Mal Cozinhado They perform in 6-hour stints to an enthusiastic crowd Monday to Saturday, beginning at 9:30 p.m. A la carte dinner, priced at about $25 per person, is served from 8:30 p.m. After the music begins, most patrons prefer just to drink, paying a cover charge of $11, which includes two drinks. After that beer costs about $5 a bottle.

If dancing suits the mood, try the Discoteca Industria in the Centro Comercial da Foz or Discoteque Anekibobs. Both have stripped-down interiors that cater to crowds of artistes, writers, architects, and other well-behaved cosmopolitan patrons. Open weekends 10:30 p.m. to 4 a.m. A nocturnal hangout near the river that includes a restaurant, a battery of snooker tables, and an active dance floor is the Discoteca Twins.

For more intimate conversation, Via Rapida's recorded music plays softly enough to whisper sweet nothings. Even more intimate is Padaria. For sophisticated travelers seeking mellow entertainment, the over 50 crowd won't feel out of place at the Bar Hiva-oa. For those closer to college age -- or those hoping to briefly recreate that lifestyle -- head for Bar Meia Cave, Cosa Nostdra, or Bar Taberna 2000.

Lisbon's All-Night Life Inspires Intimate Moments

If you have only one night in Lisbon, spend it at a fado club. Fado outshines all other nighttime entertainment in Lisbon. One of the most popular clubs for this musical art form is even named Lisboa a Noite --Lisbon at Night. The setting is a former stable decorated in a style inspired by the Age of Discovery -- rustic yet luxurious. When it's cold outside, scented eucalyptus logs crackle in a high fireplace. In the rear is an open kitchen and charcoal grill, where house specialties are prepared, including steak Lisboa a Noite flambe. The club is pricey -- cover charge is about $17 and an average meal is around $45 -- the experience is priceless.

The capital attracts the greatest fadistas in the world. Don't plan to hear fado -- considered high art in Portugal -- while carrying on a private conversation; it's bad form. Most of the authentic fado clubs cluster in the Bairro Alto and the Alfama, between St. George's Castle and the docks. Fado hop between the two quarters. The hotel concierge is a good bet for information, because one of their duties is reserving seats.

The concierge may also have information about the current performance at the Museu da Fundacao Calouste Gulbenkian. From October through June, concerts, recitals, and ballet performances are held here. Some honeymooners may be lucky enough to spend a romantic evening with the Teatro Nacional de Sao Carlos, which attracts opera and ballet aficionados from all over Europe. Top companies world wide perform at this 18th century theater. The season begins in mid-September and runs through July.

By American standards, the "party" in Lisbon begins late. Many bars don't even open until 10 or 11 p.m., and very few savvy Portuguese would set foot in a club before 1 a.m.

The Bairro Alto Burns the Midnight Oil in Lisbon

The Bairro Alto with some 150 restaurants and bars is the most happening place after dark. The Bairro Alto (Upper City) preserves the characteristics of the Lisbon of yore. In location and population, it once was the heart of the city. Many of its buildings survived the 1755 earthquake.

Lisboans tend to eat much later than most American, Canadian, and British visitors, and some restaurants stay open very late. International travelers needn't pay exorbitant prices for top-quality food. Restaurants featuring Portuguese and foreign fare -- from beer and steak taverns to formal town house dining rooms to cliff-side restaurants with panoramic views -- suit all budgets.

Today, it's home to some of the finest fado cafes in Lisbon, making it Lisbon's center of nightlife. The area is resoundingly colorful. The area comes alive at night, luring visitors and natives with fado, food, discos, and small bars. Lisbon's budget restaurants, the tascas, abound, as well as more deluxe eateries. Victorian lanterns light the streets, and people stroll leisurely.

A romantic Lisbon by Night tour, offered on Monday, Wednesday, and Friday evenings by Star Travel will begin with an exploration in the heart of the city, a climb uphill to St. George's Castle, a drive along the Tagus River and a chance to admire the Jeronimos Monastery. Then delve into the old quarter of Alcantara and conclude an intimate evening with dinner and drinks at a restaurant featuring entertainment by fadista. A similar tour with the same itinerary concludes with dinner and an international show at the casino in the coastal resort of Estoril. Lisbon by Night and Casino Estoril tours range from about $60 to $80 per person.